Sunday, 25 January 2009

ANDRE, LIESI & THE DEEP WATERS HOTEL


We were supposed to meet a friend, Andre, at the Scandinaviadrift Bridge around lunchtime, and according to some, it was almost 17kms along the river. We had an early start, and started paddling like animals. The river once again changed a bit, and we met some people fishing on the banks, but eventually all I could think was to paddle and not feel, or think. We had a head wind, which was slightly bothersome, and very few rapids, which made for intensive paddling.

Eventually, I asked everyone we came across, how far it still was towards this bridge, and the first group said 2kms, the second person said 8, and the third said 2. Confusing if you ask me and never ask anyone who hasn't actually paddled the distance, how far it is. Anyhow, it turned out to be all of the above, so the third was spot on.It was the happiest face, to see Liesi and Andre waiting on the banks, just before the bridge. I still had another 500m to go, but it felt like I couldn't bridge the gap. It is always brilliant to see old friends.


We sat for hours catching up, we almost forgot about dinner. We had a barbeque and for us there was the most delicious butterfish, salads, sweet potato and garlic bread. It has been a long time since I ate so much, but the food was so good, I had to go back for more.
Liesi helped Maria set up camp, as we were going to camp on the riverbank. There was going to be a party with the band M2 performing tonight, but since I have never heard of this band, and we were having a good time on our own, we decided to enjoy each others company until it was time for bed. This was a truly magical evening.







ELGRO RIVER LODGE

It turns out, the most amazing couple runs Eerstegeluk, and a pity we only really met and spoke on the day that we left. They are Pieter and Linda Gericke, and they have lived here almost all of their married life. Linda used to be an airhostess, until she married Pieter, and they seemed to have lived here happily with their 3 sons of whom the eldest is almost 40. If you want privacy, simplicity, a fabulous fishing spot and beautiful, romantic evenings, this is the place to visit.
I was sad to leave, as they were a wonderful inspiration, and very easy to get along with. We headed out a bit late, and had our first weir to jump. This one was fairly high, and once we considered all the warnings about drowning, we transported our kayaks safely to the other side, and tried like hell to break free from the hyacinths and get back in the main stream. The rest of the way, we had continuous rapids, but nothing serious. The only trick was not to get stuck on the rocks, of which there are many.


We passed a couple on holiday, and chatted as we drifted forward. There were many islands, an abundance of wildlife and rapid moving water. It was lovely. It was clear that we were outside of the dome area now, because the mountains became smaller, till they virtually disappeared and made way for dense bushes on the river banks. It was late afternoon when we saw what looked like a lodge on the right-hand side of the river. The Elgro Riverlodge was a very welcome stop, 'cause I was tired and thirsty. Gerhardus welcomes us, and immediately offered us something to drink. Later on we met Riaan, also a manager and some of the guests, Hennie and Marc, who were delightful company. Seems Hennie is a regular here at the Elgro, which is a fishing hot spot, and a stunning getaway from city life. Not too far from Johannesburg either.






We slept in a beautifully decorated, comfortable room, of which the bed was sent straight from heaven. Lucky me! A hot shower remedied all other ailments, and I barely ate dinner before I fell asleep.




EERSTEGELUK


Up bright and early, but we only had to be ready by 10am, when Francious was going to take us back to the water. Smittie came by to finish off the seats he had built for the kayaks. They are very primitive, but will do the trick, I'm sure. It was 11:58am when we got to the water, and we chatted for a little while before saying our good-byes. This was our last familiar stop before embarking on completely unknown terrain. It was amazing to spend time with these individuals. They all went out of their way for us, and I appreciate it more than you know. I will always remember you fondly, and hope our paths will cross again. Francious, Smittie, Leane and Tabs, thanks for sharing...

Once in the water, I felt at home. I love being out here, love the water, love every single thing that surrounds me, love this moment...
A breeze was making ripples in the water, and it soon picked up into a rather strong head wind. I had to put my everything behind each stroke, or else the wind would get the better of me. Most of all, I had to prevent turning sideways when a vicious gust came rushing through, because it would surely tip the boat over. I was getting hungry and Katryn asked nicely to be grounded for a bit, so I suggested we find a place to stop for lunch. We saw some people at a house on the right hand side, and called out to them, to ask where we were allowed to stop, and they suggested we get out right there and take our time, till we are ready to get back on the water. Joyce even offered to make us some coffee. It was magic, to be sure.



After about 30mins, we were back on the water. Smittie, your seat is lovely, but my ass was starting to hurt. Ag, it's all good, I'll just shift positions every so often, even though that didn't help much. I kept to my right, because the wind seemed less fierce closer to the banks. I am continued to be amazed by the bustling activity in the water and on the banks. The lizards are rather big, and we saw one walking Hyacinths. It was such a kodac moment, but due to poor and wet conditions on the raft, I missed it...
At around 4am, I was getting tired, although the colors and reflections on the water were so beautiful, it was a pleasure to paddle some more. We were on the lookout for a place on the left hand side of the river, called Eerstegeluk, and we were to recognize it by the wooden deck built amongst some eucalyptus trees. It was 6.30pm when we finally found it. We've only paddled 11kms today, but it sure felt like 50 to me.
Eerstegeluk is the most idyllic little place next to the river, rustic and somewhat primitive with a romantic feel to it. Love it!!! Francious had suggested this place, and said he would make arrangement for us to sleep over, so we could literally just unpack when we get there. I was so hungry and tired; I almost didn't spend time to appreciate my surroundings. I made a quick pasta and pesto, which tasted like heaven to the hungry.
Too tired to do anything, but we had a quick wash, coffee, and off to bed. Sweet, sweet dreams and I hope that tomorrow is as beautiful as today was. Thank you everyone for a beautiful adventure....

VENTERSKROON, GHOST TRAILS & FABULOUS PEOPLE




Today was a day off the water for us. A lot of catching up to do, and blogging, blogging, blogging. I am so far behind, but with a little effort, I'm sure I'll catch up soon enough. Francious and Leane invited us to dinner tonight and Smittie offered to make us special seats to go on the canoe's which would elevate us a little. He quickly went to town to get the materials, and to get us some fresh supplies. These guys are quite amazing to say the least.
A very nice surprise when Christo joined us for dinner at the Tea room. I had such a good time. Francious and Leane were the perfect hosts, and made a phenomenal feast for dinner. We had good wine, and exceptional company. Christo Meyer entertained us with stories of times gone by, of Venterskroon back in the day, of ghosts that walk here, and so many more fascinating stories. It is rare to find someone who knows so much about the community he lives in, and who actually cares enough to make a constant contribution towards making it possible for others to enjoy its wonders.
We were exchanging ghost stories until we all went our separate ways. Francious and Leane invited us for a quick coffee at their place before we walked home. Walking home was quite the experience. We had to walk by the old hotel, which is supposedly haunted, because a lot of killing took place here, executions, etc. Dante walked in front and Katryn behind us, all the way home, like two little angels, keeping the evil at bay.
I think they also had a fabulous time, because Francious' Boerbull, Sheila and Dante took a liking to each other. Odd combination, but cute as ever! Katryn was growling for a long time, sitting underneath the table, wanting to attack any dog that came close. Their Jack Russel, Seun, tried desperately to get Katryn's attention, but it was only towards the end of our evening that she warmed up to him a little.
The minute we got back, I hit the sack!!!
Thank you so much guys for a wonderful, wonderful time spent here...