MKAMBATI TO LAMBAZI BAY - LUXURY AT LAST

We woke up early, but getting up was challenging for me. My feet are all swollen and sore. My back hurts under the strain of it's heavy cargo, and from sleeping on the hard floor. The sun is out though, so that's good enough to get me out of bed.

We had a breakfast consisting of scrambled eggs and bread - tasty!!! Did some last minute typing, and started packing. We said our good-byes to everyone, and enquired about the route to the Msikaba River. The tide was coming in, so whether or not we would be able to cross, remained to be seen. As we got to the top of the ridge, the greatest views greeted us, and we stood there for a while, wind blowing fiercely.

Maria was on top form, and was eager to get going. It's a great feeling, when you feel like you can go on forever, regardless of your load or weather conditions. This was a good inspiration to me, because I was at a low when we started, but picked up the pace rather quickly.

As we started going down to the river, we hiked through the most exquisite forest. It was as if we had walked into a fairy tale, and all sorts of magic surrounded us. Dante and Katryn soon got lost, playing around, chasing lizards or each other. Guru, who is now officially part of the family, just lay watching them, waiting patiently while we all absorbed the magnificent energy present here.
We continued on, and once we got to the river, we couldn't find anywhere shallow enough to get through. We saw a guy on the other side, canoe in the water, attached to a rope which he was using to drag the canoe behind him. We called to him, to find out if there was either a shallow enough bit where we could cross, but couldn't see, or if he could get us across with his canoe. He said that he had just seen a shark - not too big - swim by, so he wouldn't advise crossing, so he offered to somehow get his canoe to us, but it was at this moment when the ferryman made his appearance. He saw us leaving the reserve, and came down especially to give us a ride across. WOW!!!

The little boat was big enough for all of us, and this time I made sure he knew that Guru was part of us, so therefor he was going in the boat. He had no problem at all, only Guru refused to get in the boat, instead he swam across. Now, this is a very wide river, with a strong current, but Guru is a die hard, special breed of dog. We tried to stay close to him, urged him on, but the ferryman kept assuring us, that this is a local dog, and that they are strong, and are used to this. I guess he proved as much...

We met some cool people on the beach, but Maria didn't want to waste time chatting, she was a girl on a mission, so we continued ahead. We hiked for a while, and when it was close to 12am I suggested we rest at a little stream where we could prepare lunch. We cooked up a quick Soy and Rice, but it suddenly became so hot, we had to get out of the sun. The only tree nearby, was a little upstream, so I went to check it out - Perfect!

We sat in the shade until it was a little cooler, and then continued on again. The coastline was rocky, with hardly any sandy beaches, so we followed the path along the grasslands. We passed a couple of homesteads and knew that Lambazi bay couldn't be much further anymore. We started seeing many faces, as we passed the first holiday cottages. The nicest lady, Jenny Dutton, handed us the coldest cans of Just Juice, and nothing has ever tasted that good, ever! They told us about the Drifters, Wild Coast Inn, on the other side of the river, and said we might find accommodation there. We weren't planning on staying in any Lodges or Inn's along the way, didn't even know this one existed, but we went there anyway. Thought we could get something to eat and drink, and maybe go on.

Once we got to the Drifters however, there was no way that we weren't gonna stay here. This is just what the doctor prescribed! Warm bed, hot shower, gorgeous rooms, lovely restaurant, and good company. There were so many faces, people on holiday, a couple from London, a big family, and our hosts, Otto and Adri were just amazing! This place is so worth it! A rare find in these parts.

We sat around, chatting with the guests, exchanging stories and had a brilliant time. I went to have a shower before dinner, because I was starting to feel a little uncomfortable, and needed to freshen up. Been a long day, and we've been roughing it for a while now.

Dinner was fantastic! There was so much food, it was Divine! It was just a pity, because my tummy wasn't feeling too hot! Think maybe the soy and rice didn't go down that well, but that was preventing me from enjoying this beautiful feast before me! I didn't even have dessert!

We sat with the couple from London, and they were such fun people! He had an injury to his ankle, so they couldn't continue their hike, but instead spent their remaining days here. They are leaving for home tomorrow morning.

I am so tired, I'm virtually falling asleep at the counter, so I excused myself and went straight to bed. I fell asleep almost instantly. This didn't last long however, as my stomach was turned upside down, and I was doubled over in pain. Okay, yeah, so I was awake much of the night...

HAPPY BIRTHDAY MY BABY!

I wish you the most beautiful day ever! Wish we could be there to share it with you... I hope that you have a fantastic year, and that all your dreams come true...
Thanks for always being there, urging us on, and sharing in our joy and laughter. You are Super Special!!!
Mwah!!!

HIKING THROUGH MKAMBATI

Maria and Nokanya, crossing the Mtentu

Zebra

We woke up early, and started packing. We had arranged with the local ferryman, a lady called Nokanya, to take us across the Mtentu river, at 9am today. Wonda came round early too, so we didn't have time to get breakfast before we headed out. Nokanya took us across, one at a time, because the canoe was too small for all of us and our bags. We said our good-byes to Wonda, and he instructed us to go to the Reserve Office, as he had arranged for us to charge our gear, and accommodation for the night, so we were to steer away from the beach just over a kilometer away from the river.
It is sunny and hot out which is my personal favourite. This bad weather, although refreshing at times, was starting to weigh me down. The hike was great. We saw a lot of wildlife under which was Red Hartebeest, Eland, Gemsbok, Zebra, and so many Baboons. When we got as far as the Horseshoe Falls, we decided to have a break, and enjoy the magnificent energy present here. We lingered a while longer. We met a father playing with his two young boys, and two cyclists stopping by for a dip in the pools.
The rest of our hike was mostly along 4 x 4 tracks, and later on a gravel road. Guru started chasing a Gemsbok herd, and we couldn't get him to stop. If someone had to see this, they'd kick us all out of the resort, but didn't bother him much. It was cool though, because he was just playing, no harm done. Later he chased a troop of baboons, and they eventually became very angry, but he didn't care much for the crowd around him, shouting heatedly.
We were hiking along this road for what seemed forever, and then I said to Maria how I wished a car would pick us up, and what do you know, the next thing, a Land Rover parked beside us, and offered us a ride. All of us fit in the back, except Guru. The lady asked if he belonged to us, and we explained how he's been tagging along since Mnyameni. We were upset with him for chasing the animals, so we thought he'd find his own way. It couldn't be more than 2kms to the office... Well, what happened next, was heartbreaking! As we pulled away, Guru followed, and he ran for all he was worth! I've never seen anything like it, and I felt like such a traitor, for disowning him, and making him chase behind us.
He was running like that for what seemed an eternity, but I actually have no idea, just felt like it. We were cheering him on, and I promised him everything his little heart desired. Finally, we stopped at the Reserve Office, and fell out the back, as we were all trying to give Guru the congratulations he so richly deserved. Wow, that was quite an experience.
Victoria showed us our quarters, which is what looks like the conference centre. The Reserve had been fully booked, and as the dogs aren't really allowed, they expected us to handle a low profile. We managed to get a lift to the spaza, on the truck that delivers every body to their homes. This is one of the most well stocked, happening spaza's I've seen this side of Port St Johns. We bought everything we've been craving along the way, or at least that which we could find, or the closest thing to it. If I said this spaza is well stocked, then I meant for the Transkei...
We cooked up a feast for the dogs. Chicken, rice, gravy... and as for ourselves, we were snacking away on junk food, but it was the best meal in ages. We had access to all the electricity we were hoping for, so we started charging, and catching up on blog postings.
Morale was quite high, and we were up until somewhere around midnight. I suddenly felt like I was gonna fall asleep in an upright position. We crawled in, but I couldn't sleep, because I was hearing all sorts of sounds, and imagining all sorts of creepy stuff, so I jumped up at the slightest movement. Somewhere in the middle of all of this, I fell asleep.

MKAMBATI SHORELINE & FALLS

Rocky beaches with small sandy bays

Just because it's beautiful

These little guys were being washed out with the waves

Horseshoe Falls, from the top

MKAMBATI NATURE RESERVE

This 8000ha coastal reserve consists mostly of open grassland dissected by perenial streams and flanked by the magnificent forested ravines of the Msikaba and Mtentu rivers.
Grasslands cover a large proportion of the reserve and support a fascinating and diverse flora. Clumps of Strelitzia nicolai interupt the grassland, where they grow among rock outcrops which are protected from fire. A close look at these rock outcrops will reveal 'miniature gardens' of moss, lichens, succulents and orchids, all of which are able to survive by obtaining moisture from the regular mists and rain. Watsonias, gladiolas and ground orchids abound in the grassland which may be dominated in places by the yellow-flowered daisy Lasiosiphon anthtylloides.
Large numbers of grazing herbivores such as Eland, Red Hartebeest, Blue Wildebeest, Blesbuck, and even Gemsbok, have been introduced into the grasslands, although only the first two species are indigenous to the area. Among the birds which may be seen in this habitat are Redshouldered Widow, Longtailed Widow, Yellowthroated Longclaw, Common Waxbill and Croaking Cisticola, with Gurney's Sugarbird and Greater Double Collared Sunbird seeking nectar from the flowering strelitzias.
Patches of unique Swamp Forest, where large Umdoni and Wild Frangipani dominate, are found in low-lying areas. Of the many streams running through the reserve, the Mkambati is perhaps the most beautiful with its crystal clear pools and series of spectacular waterfalls. The Horseshoe Falls are most impressive as they drop down over a terrace in a wide arc, the stream then tumbling over another waterfall before dropping several metres into the ocean.
The coastline is very rocky, with sandy bays at river mouths. Shells may be found anywhere along the shore and fishing is outstanding. Large dunes and wide beaches occur at the mouth of the Msikaba River, where large flocks of terns congregate.
Canoes may be tken up the spectacular Msikaba River which, together with the Mtentu River, is the only place in the world where the Pondo Coconut is found. These feathery palms grow close to the water's edge on the shady south-facing banks of both rivers. The Msikaba is navigable by canoe for about two kilometres, when a series of rapids is reached. Further up the river, a colony of Cape Vultures breed on the sheer cliffs of the gorge.
Breathtaking views of the Msikaba gorge can be obtained by walking through the grassland above the river. At a bend in the gorge, a natural amphitheatre of towering evergreen forest is inhabited by a spectacular variety of birds.
Duncan Butchart

MTENTU CAMPSITE AND A DAY OFF

BEAUTIFUL ROCKS IN MTENTU AREA

PRIVATE BAY WHERE WE RELAXED FOR A WHILE

MARIA AND DANTE ANXIOUS TO GET DOWN TO THE BEACH, BEFORE THE PRECIOUS SUNLIGHT IS WASTED

We woke up to the sound of heavy rainfall, so I just turned on my other side and went right back to sleep. It felt great! I'm not even sure what day it is, and I love how time comes to a standstill here. Maria brought me a fantastic cup of coffee, but not even that coaxed me out of bed. It was only around 9am, when I decided to rise from the dead, as the sun was about to break through the clouds. The wind was a bit rough, but we were so extatic to have a sunny day, that we were out, and did some exploring along the rocks, lay like lizzards, soaking up the rays, and then we found the perfect little bay and went swimming in the ocean. It was beautiful! Strange though, that as I got older, I got a bit scared of what's in the water, especially going deeper. I would say it's definitely a case of watching too many Jaws movies...
Once we got back to the camp, we had the nicest shower. The showers at the campsite are really cool, but need some serious maintenance especially the reeds surrounding me, because it let's sufficient amounts of this severe wind outside through to chill my bones - not too comfy. The shower is solar operated, and this system also looks like it's been a while since it's been serviced. It's still great, somewhat warm, clean water, a beautiful view, and I'm totally energized.
We headed towards the kitchen to start our dinner, which was trying at times, because it was getting dark and inside the kitchen, even darker. Dinner was fabulous, and it was about time to settle in and just lay there thinking for a while. I have a lot to think about. So many things happened since we've started our hike, and so far, it seems that one coincidence after the other finds it's way into existence, affirming why we're here in the first place.
Sometimes, I get so wrapped up with that which I'm busy with, planning and strategizing, that I don't even remember to savour every minute and to enjoy this moment that I have before me, right now. This is how I miss these little coincidences, and how I forget to be what was intended for me.

UNITED WE STAND

OR HUT AT THE MTENTU CAMPSITE

THE VIEW FROM OUR ROOM - OVERLOOKING MKAMBATI NATURE RESERVE
MARIA AND WONDERFUL

Woke up to the sound of heavy rainfall, it was devine, so I just lay listening for a long time. I figured it had to be somewhere around 4.30am. I was wondering wether this was going to continue, but to tell you the truth, I couldn't care less.
Wonderful came round really, really early, because he was worried that we'd be leaving in this rain, and convinced us to stay another day. We lazed around, chatting for a while, catching up on some more local news. We all headed to the kitchen, and Lux joined us while we cooked up a gorgeous breakfast, consisting of chilli beef soya, scrambled eggs and some lovely fresh bread. Breakfast of kings...
Stix, Mandla, Lux, Wonderful, Thula, and the girls kept us entertained almost the entire day. We were talking about tradition, global warming, sustainable living, mining, tourism, and basically everything that came to mind. It was amazing how, when people don't have access to information, news, etc, they live oblivious to the world's weaknesses, almost idillic. This crowd was amazed to learn more of issues like global warming, and was charmed at the idea of sustainable living, although they already make use of various means of sustainability, but there are so many more possibilities, and this could also serve as a potential tool in their fight to bring tourism back to it's former glory.
I felt terrible for my friends and others like them, as I listened to their various stories, of so many people who come here, and claim to have solutions to their so-called problems, but so far, almost all of those promises and schemes were just an attempt to make as much money as possible through the hard work and effort of others, while their problems remain the same, in fact, if anything, they now know what it's like to be taken advantage of. They still don't earn a descend living due to the fact that they are paid far less than the minimum wage for tending to tourists that visit this campsite (a company started to benefit this community). They are always here, always on time, and always willing to help, to chat or to teach others their ways. So why then is their situation so desperate?
I believe we are here for more than just being successful in our own lives, and to share these successes and combine our strenghts with that of others, is more than enough to resolve greediness and people playing God.
I sure absorbed a lot today, and I have some food for thought as I lay in my bed. Sjoe, it's sometimes hard to put myself in someone elses shoes, but I can imagine and measure that by what I do not like for myself. So many coincidences, so much to be thankful for, and so much to appreciate, would be nice if all was fair, but I guess it is what you make it right?
The night outside is breathtaking! I have enjoyed my days here, but it's time to continue on our hike, we have lots to talk about, and I'm trying desperately to master the art of meditation. I have some difficulty concentrating on anything for too long, but I'm adament to practise until I succeed. Be nice to have some silence, so the hike is good.
MMMmmmm, sweet dreams and many blessings...