I wish you the most beautiful day ever! Wish we could be there to share it with you... I hope that you have a fantastic year, and that all your dreams come true...
Thanks for always being there, urging us on, and sharing in our joy and laughter. You are Super Special!!!
Mwah!!!
Tuesday, 08 January 2008
HIKING THROUGH MKAMBATI
Maria and Nokanya, crossing the Mtentu
Zebra
It is sunny and hot out which is my personal favourite. This bad weather, although refreshing at times, was starting to weigh me down. The hike was great. We saw a lot of wildlife under which was Red Hartebeest, Eland, Gemsbok, Zebra, and so many Baboons. When we got as far as the Horseshoe Falls, we decided to have a break, and enjoy the magnificent energy present here. We lingered a while longer. We met a father playing with his two young boys, and two cyclists stopping by for a dip in the pools.
The rest of our hike was mostly along 4 x 4 tracks, and later on a gravel road. Guru started chasing a Gemsbok herd, and we couldn't get him to stop. If someone had to see this, they'd kick us all out of the resort, but didn't bother him much. It was cool though, because he was just playing, no harm done. Later he chased a troop of baboons, and they eventually became very angry, but he didn't care much for the crowd around him, shouting heatedly.
We were hiking along this road for what seemed forever, and then I said to Maria how I wished a car would pick us up, and what do you know, the next thing, a Land Rover parked beside us, and offered us a ride. All of us fit in the back, except Guru. The lady asked if he belonged to us, and we explained how he's been tagging along since Mnyameni. We were upset with him for chasing the animals, so we thought he'd find his own way. It couldn't be more than 2kms to the office... Well, what happened next, was heartbreaking! As we pulled away, Guru followed, and he ran for all he was worth! I've never seen anything like it, and I felt like such a traitor, for disowning him, and making him chase behind us.
He was running like that for what seemed an eternity, but I actually have no idea, just felt like it. We were cheering him on, and I promised him everything his little heart desired. Finally, we stopped at the Reserve Office, and fell out the back, as we were all trying to give Guru the congratulations he so richly deserved. Wow, that was quite an experience.
Victoria showed us our quarters, which is what looks like the conference centre. The Reserve had been fully booked, and as the dogs aren't really allowed, they expected us to handle a low profile. We managed to get a lift to the spaza, on the truck that delivers every body to their homes. This is one of the most well stocked, happening spaza's I've seen this side of Port St Johns. We bought everything we've been craving along the way, or at least that which we could find, or the closest thing to it. If I said this spaza is well stocked, then I meant for the Transkei...
We cooked up a feast for the dogs. Chicken, rice, gravy... and as for ourselves, we were snacking away on junk food, but it was the best meal in ages. We had access to all the electricity we were hoping for, so we started charging, and catching up on blog postings.
Morale was quite high, and we were up until somewhere around midnight. I suddenly felt like I was gonna fall asleep in an upright position. We crawled in, but I couldn't sleep, because I was hearing all sorts of sounds, and imagining all sorts of creepy stuff, so I jumped up at the slightest movement. Somewhere in the middle of all of this, I fell asleep.
MKAMBATI SHORELINE & FALLS
Rocky beaches with small sandy bays
Just because it's beautiful
These little guys were being washed out with the waves
Horseshoe Falls, from the top
MKAMBATI NATURE RESERVE
This 8000ha coastal reserve consists mostly of open grassland dissected by perenial streams and flanked by the magnificent forested ravines of the Msikaba and Mtentu rivers.
Grasslands cover a large proportion of the reserve and support a fascinating and diverse flora. Clumps of Strelitzia nicolai interupt the grassland, where they grow among rock outcrops which are protected from fire. A close look at these rock outcrops will reveal 'miniature gardens' of moss, lichens, succulents and orchids, all of which are able to survive by obtaining moisture from the regular mists and rain. Watsonias, gladiolas and ground orchids abound in the grassland which may be dominated in places by the yellow-flowered daisy Lasiosiphon anthtylloides.
Large numbers of grazing herbivores such as Eland, Red Hartebeest, Blue Wildebeest, Blesbuck, and even Gemsbok, have been introduced into the grasslands, although only the first two species are indigenous to the area. Among the birds which may be seen in this habitat are Redshouldered Widow, Longtailed Widow, Yellowthroated Longclaw, Common Waxbill and Croaking Cisticola, with Gurney's Sugarbird and Greater Double Collared Sunbird seeking nectar from the flowering strelitzias.
Patches of unique Swamp Forest, where large Umdoni and Wild Frangipani dominate, are found in low-lying areas. Of the many streams running through the reserve, the Mkambati is perhaps the most beautiful with its crystal clear pools and series of spectacular waterfalls. The Horseshoe Falls are most impressive as they drop down over a terrace in a wide arc, the stream then tumbling over another waterfall before dropping several metres into the ocean.
The coastline is very rocky, with sandy bays at river mouths. Shells may be found anywhere along the shore and fishing is outstanding. Large dunes and wide beaches occur at the mouth of the Msikaba River, where large flocks of terns congregate.
Canoes may be tken up the spectacular Msikaba River which, together with the Mtentu River, is the only place in the world where the Pondo Coconut is found. These feathery palms grow close to the water's edge on the shady south-facing banks of both rivers. The Msikaba is navigable by canoe for about two kilometres, when a series of rapids is reached. Further up the river, a colony of Cape Vultures breed on the sheer cliffs of the gorge.
Breathtaking views of the Msikaba gorge can be obtained by walking through the grassland above the river. At a bend in the gorge, a natural amphitheatre of towering evergreen forest is inhabited by a spectacular variety of birds.
Duncan Butchart
Grasslands cover a large proportion of the reserve and support a fascinating and diverse flora. Clumps of Strelitzia nicolai interupt the grassland, where they grow among rock outcrops which are protected from fire. A close look at these rock outcrops will reveal 'miniature gardens' of moss, lichens, succulents and orchids, all of which are able to survive by obtaining moisture from the regular mists and rain. Watsonias, gladiolas and ground orchids abound in the grassland which may be dominated in places by the yellow-flowered daisy Lasiosiphon anthtylloides.
Large numbers of grazing herbivores such as Eland, Red Hartebeest, Blue Wildebeest, Blesbuck, and even Gemsbok, have been introduced into the grasslands, although only the first two species are indigenous to the area. Among the birds which may be seen in this habitat are Redshouldered Widow, Longtailed Widow, Yellowthroated Longclaw, Common Waxbill and Croaking Cisticola, with Gurney's Sugarbird and Greater Double Collared Sunbird seeking nectar from the flowering strelitzias.
Patches of unique Swamp Forest, where large Umdoni and Wild Frangipani dominate, are found in low-lying areas. Of the many streams running through the reserve, the Mkambati is perhaps the most beautiful with its crystal clear pools and series of spectacular waterfalls. The Horseshoe Falls are most impressive as they drop down over a terrace in a wide arc, the stream then tumbling over another waterfall before dropping several metres into the ocean.
The coastline is very rocky, with sandy bays at river mouths. Shells may be found anywhere along the shore and fishing is outstanding. Large dunes and wide beaches occur at the mouth of the Msikaba River, where large flocks of terns congregate.
Canoes may be tken up the spectacular Msikaba River which, together with the Mtentu River, is the only place in the world where the Pondo Coconut is found. These feathery palms grow close to the water's edge on the shady south-facing banks of both rivers. The Msikaba is navigable by canoe for about two kilometres, when a series of rapids is reached. Further up the river, a colony of Cape Vultures breed on the sheer cliffs of the gorge.
Breathtaking views of the Msikaba gorge can be obtained by walking through the grassland above the river. At a bend in the gorge, a natural amphitheatre of towering evergreen forest is inhabited by a spectacular variety of birds.
Duncan Butchart
Monday, 07 January 2008
MTENTU CAMPSITE AND A DAY OFF
BEAUTIFUL ROCKS IN MTENTU AREA
PRIVATE BAY WHERE WE RELAXED FOR A WHILE
MARIA AND DANTE ANXIOUS TO GET DOWN TO THE BEACH, BEFORE THE PRECIOUS SUNLIGHT IS WASTED
We woke up to the sound of heavy rainfall, so I just turned on my other side and went right back to sleep. It felt great! I'm not even sure what day it is, and I love how time comes to a standstill here. Maria brought me a fantastic cup of coffee, but not even that coaxed me out of bed. It was only around 9am, when I decided to rise from the dead, as the sun was about to break through the clouds. The wind was a bit rough, but we were so extatic to have a sunny day, that we were out, and did some exploring along the rocks, lay like lizzards, soaking up the rays, and then we found the perfect little bay and went swimming in the ocean. It was beautiful! Strange though, that as I got older, I got a bit scared of what's in the water, especially going deeper. I would say it's definitely a case of watching too many Jaws movies...
Once we got back to the camp, we had the nicest shower. The showers at the campsite are really cool, but need some serious maintenance especially the reeds surrounding me, because it let's sufficient amounts of this severe wind outside through to chill my bones - not too comfy. The shower is solar operated, and this system also looks like it's been a while since it's been serviced. It's still great, somewhat warm, clean water, a beautiful view, and I'm totally energized.
We headed towards the kitchen to start our dinner, which was trying at times, because it was getting dark and inside the kitchen, even darker. Dinner was fabulous, and it was about time to settle in and just lay there thinking for a while. I have a lot to think about. So many things happened since we've started our hike, and so far, it seems that one coincidence after the other finds it's way into existence, affirming why we're here in the first place.
Sometimes, I get so wrapped up with that which I'm busy with, planning and strategizing, that I don't even remember to savour every minute and to enjoy this moment that I have before me, right now. This is how I miss these little coincidences, and how I forget to be what was intended for me.
Once we got back to the camp, we had the nicest shower. The showers at the campsite are really cool, but need some serious maintenance especially the reeds surrounding me, because it let's sufficient amounts of this severe wind outside through to chill my bones - not too comfy. The shower is solar operated, and this system also looks like it's been a while since it's been serviced. It's still great, somewhat warm, clean water, a beautiful view, and I'm totally energized.
We headed towards the kitchen to start our dinner, which was trying at times, because it was getting dark and inside the kitchen, even darker. Dinner was fabulous, and it was about time to settle in and just lay there thinking for a while. I have a lot to think about. So many things happened since we've started our hike, and so far, it seems that one coincidence after the other finds it's way into existence, affirming why we're here in the first place.
Sometimes, I get so wrapped up with that which I'm busy with, planning and strategizing, that I don't even remember to savour every minute and to enjoy this moment that I have before me, right now. This is how I miss these little coincidences, and how I forget to be what was intended for me.
UNITED WE STAND
OR HUT AT THE MTENTU CAMPSITE
THE VIEW FROM OUR ROOM - OVERLOOKING MKAMBATI NATURE RESERVE
MARIA AND WONDERFUL
Wonderful came round really, really early, because he was worried that we'd be leaving in this rain, and convinced us to stay another day. We lazed around, chatting for a while, catching up on some more local news. We all headed to the kitchen, and Lux joined us while we cooked up a gorgeous breakfast, consisting of chilli beef soya, scrambled eggs and some lovely fresh bread. Breakfast of kings...
Stix, Mandla, Lux, Wonderful, Thula, and the girls kept us entertained almost the entire day. We were talking about tradition, global warming, sustainable living, mining, tourism, and basically everything that came to mind. It was amazing how, when people don't have access to information, news, etc, they live oblivious to the world's weaknesses, almost idillic. This crowd was amazed to learn more of issues like global warming, and was charmed at the idea of sustainable living, although they already make use of various means of sustainability, but there are so many more possibilities, and this could also serve as a potential tool in their fight to bring tourism back to it's former glory.
I felt terrible for my friends and others like them, as I listened to their various stories, of so many people who come here, and claim to have solutions to their so-called problems, but so far, almost all of those promises and schemes were just an attempt to make as much money as possible through the hard work and effort of others, while their problems remain the same, in fact, if anything, they now know what it's like to be taken advantage of. They still don't earn a descend living due to the fact that they are paid far less than the minimum wage for tending to tourists that visit this campsite (a company started to benefit this community). They are always here, always on time, and always willing to help, to chat or to teach others their ways. So why then is their situation so desperate?
I believe we are here for more than just being successful in our own lives, and to share these successes and combine our strenghts with that of others, is more than enough to resolve greediness and people playing God.
I sure absorbed a lot today, and I have some food for thought as I lay in my bed. Sjoe, it's sometimes hard to put myself in someone elses shoes, but I can imagine and measure that by what I do not like for myself. So many coincidences, so much to be thankful for, and so much to appreciate, would be nice if all was fair, but I guess it is what you make it right?
The night outside is breathtaking! I have enjoyed my days here, but it's time to continue on our hike, we have lots to talk about, and I'm trying desperately to master the art of meditation. I have some difficulty concentrating on anything for too long, but I'm adament to practise until I succeed. Be nice to have some silence, so the hike is good.
MMMmmmm, sweet dreams and many blessings...
Saturday, 05 January 2008
SIKHOMBE RIVER MOUTH
SIKHOMBE TO MTENTU
We woke up early, and it's amazing how 5am seems late. We packed up quickly, because it was still heavily overcast and drizzling from time to time. I was actually glad that the Mtentu camp was close, because I didn't feel like hiking in the rain all day. Our breakfast consisted of energy bars and coffee, quick and easy. We send word to our old friends Wonderful and Jabulani that we were here, and were hopeful to see them today.
I sat for a while silently watching as a bird paraded proudly, with a crab in it's beak. In quick movements, he hit he's catch against the rocks, until the crab finally stopped moving. It's amazing how everything just falls into place. We made our way to the spaza in the valley, and it was great, memories came flooding back from times past, good times and hardships. This is surely my favourite part of the coastline, and we hope to spend a lot of time here. It is especially this part that will be so sad to see ruined in the mining process. Besides the vast beauty and diversity of the Mtentu valley, the people who live here, make it the experience that it is.
We reached the spaza, and I could've sworn it was further. We saw lots of new faces, but once inside, it seemed all too familier. There were people sitting in the tavern area, which is the entrance, all drinking a beer of some sorts, mostly Black Label, and the aroma of marajuana thick in the air. This is where they come to do what they know best - networking. Ah, it was good to be back. There is something to be said about the simplicity and honesty, which encapsulates these people. We had a cell phone signal from up here, so we phoned Wonderful, and we made an appointment to meet each other at the campsite later, with strict instructions to buy a couple of courts to mark the occasion.
The views from the top of these hills are breathtaking as we strolled along through the village consisting of a few homesteads scattered around, almost one on each hill top. We reached the Mtentu campsite and were met by some new faces. Lux, which is camp master, is quite the entertainer, and he kept us informed on the mining situation, and the decline in tourism. His take on it was quite interesting, and yet everybody seems to be neutral on this issue. This campsite was build some years back, by the EU, as an insentive towards upliftment and a tourism oppertunity. A trust was founded in the name of the community, but it seems that some serious mismanagement has occured since the last time we were here, which is little over a year ago.
According to another source, the very same people who came here, years back, trying to influence the community to lean towards tourism, are now the people trying to convince them that mining is the better way to go. This community is torn between those who think mining is good, and those who lean towards tourism, and maintaining the lifestyle they know and love. Fact remains, that they will all be moved 20kms inland, and these 200 or so job oppertunities that are promised to them yet remains to be seen, especially those high paying managerial positions, as very few of these people are skilled or educated enough to fill such positions. The rivers will become polluted and most of their resources will be used up. This community relies on the ocean to provide them with food and oppertunities to make a living.
Don't you just hate it when people take advantage of other people's lack of knowledge or education in order to make a quick buck. Well, I do, especially when I think that this might bring about the end of a culture, one we have grown to love and respect.
Wonderful came round and it was great to see him again. So sad too, because we learnt that one of our friends, Izaack had passed away December last year. We also met Wonda's sister, Thula, a very sweet lady who looked after us during the time that we stayed there. The campsite is in a very poor state, but apparantly no maintanance had been done by the trust for ages, so once again, I wonder what is really at work here...
We met one of the guides here at the camp, called Stix. Another entertaining man with loads of funny stories to tell. What the camp lacked in comfort and maintenance, the staff certainly made up for in caracter and kindness.
Run down or not, we were extatic to get out of the rain for a bit, and the views from our room was to die for. By the time it was dark, we were all bathed, fed, and ready for bed. The solar panels at the site had been stolen, so we had no electricity, nor candles, so we lay chatting for a long, long time. It was a good day. There are much work here to be done...
I sat for a while silently watching as a bird paraded proudly, with a crab in it's beak. In quick movements, he hit he's catch against the rocks, until the crab finally stopped moving. It's amazing how everything just falls into place. We made our way to the spaza in the valley, and it was great, memories came flooding back from times past, good times and hardships. This is surely my favourite part of the coastline, and we hope to spend a lot of time here. It is especially this part that will be so sad to see ruined in the mining process. Besides the vast beauty and diversity of the Mtentu valley, the people who live here, make it the experience that it is.
We reached the spaza, and I could've sworn it was further. We saw lots of new faces, but once inside, it seemed all too familier. There were people sitting in the tavern area, which is the entrance, all drinking a beer of some sorts, mostly Black Label, and the aroma of marajuana thick in the air. This is where they come to do what they know best - networking. Ah, it was good to be back. There is something to be said about the simplicity and honesty, which encapsulates these people. We had a cell phone signal from up here, so we phoned Wonderful, and we made an appointment to meet each other at the campsite later, with strict instructions to buy a couple of courts to mark the occasion.
The views from the top of these hills are breathtaking as we strolled along through the village consisting of a few homesteads scattered around, almost one on each hill top. We reached the Mtentu campsite and were met by some new faces. Lux, which is camp master, is quite the entertainer, and he kept us informed on the mining situation, and the decline in tourism. His take on it was quite interesting, and yet everybody seems to be neutral on this issue. This campsite was build some years back, by the EU, as an insentive towards upliftment and a tourism oppertunity. A trust was founded in the name of the community, but it seems that some serious mismanagement has occured since the last time we were here, which is little over a year ago.
According to another source, the very same people who came here, years back, trying to influence the community to lean towards tourism, are now the people trying to convince them that mining is the better way to go. This community is torn between those who think mining is good, and those who lean towards tourism, and maintaining the lifestyle they know and love. Fact remains, that they will all be moved 20kms inland, and these 200 or so job oppertunities that are promised to them yet remains to be seen, especially those high paying managerial positions, as very few of these people are skilled or educated enough to fill such positions. The rivers will become polluted and most of their resources will be used up. This community relies on the ocean to provide them with food and oppertunities to make a living.
Don't you just hate it when people take advantage of other people's lack of knowledge or education in order to make a quick buck. Well, I do, especially when I think that this might bring about the end of a culture, one we have grown to love and respect.
Wonderful came round and it was great to see him again. So sad too, because we learnt that one of our friends, Izaack had passed away December last year. We also met Wonda's sister, Thula, a very sweet lady who looked after us during the time that we stayed there. The campsite is in a very poor state, but apparantly no maintanance had been done by the trust for ages, so once again, I wonder what is really at work here...
We met one of the guides here at the camp, called Stix. Another entertaining man with loads of funny stories to tell. What the camp lacked in comfort and maintenance, the staff certainly made up for in caracter and kindness.
Run down or not, we were extatic to get out of the rain for a bit, and the views from our room was to die for. By the time it was dark, we were all bathed, fed, and ready for bed. The solar panels at the site had been stolen, so we had no electricity, nor candles, so we lay chatting for a long, long time. It was a good day. There are much work here to be done...
BAD WEATHER AND BEAUTIFUL SURROUNDINGS
Still raining, but almost at the Sikhombe River mouth
GUIDE DOG, NEW FRIENDS AND UNHAPPY FACESA
OUR NEW FRIEND THAT FOLLOWED FROM MNYAMENI
KATRYN NOT TOO HAPPY ABOUT THE NEW COMPANION
MNYAMENI AND THE WAY THERE
SMALL RIVER BETWEEN MZAMBA AND MNYAMENI
THE VIEW FROM OUR PATIO AT MNYAMENI COTTAGES
THE VIEW FROM OUR PATIO AT MNYAMENI COTTAGES
MNYAMENI RIVER MOUTH
Friday, 04 January 2008
MNYAMENI TO SIKHOMBE
When I woke up, it was so quiet, even the waves were quiet. The sun was rising up from the ocean, and painting the entire valley beautiful! SJOE! This very moment, is why I do what I do. This is what I believe in, this is where I am whole!
I got up and found a spot where I could just sit and watch. I don't know how long I sat there, but I heard movement on the porch, and when I snapped out of it, we were back on track. Coffee, cuddle with the dogs, and packing up. This was such an energizing spot, making us stay a bit longer. We left somewhere around 9am. It was still overcast and we hiked in thick, loose sand in places, but the scenery was something else. Ahead of us, only white sandy beaches, to our right, beautiful vegetation, and to our left, the ever prescent ocean.
It started raining during our first break, and we found that we had a new friend who followed us all the way from Mnyameni. He was a black local dog, and no matter how desperately we tried to send him back, he was adamant to stay with us. Katryn didn't like it at all, and kept on growling at him. He stayed a couple of paces behind us, and every time we stopped to rest, he would sit a couple of metres away from us.
Eventually I started to feel bad, and so I invited him to walk with us, seeing as he didn't respond well to the silent treatment. He is a nice dog and I kinda liked his company. He obviously felt the urge to guide us to wherever, so I figured there was no harm in that.
When we finally reached the Sikombe river, we had to try and find a spot out of the rain, because it was becoming miserable. We found a very nice spot to set up camp, right next to the river. It has been such a good day, in terms of my state of mind, feeling complete and just being here. Our campsite was perfect, and we immediately started cooking our dinner, which consisted of spicy tomato soup and noodles. After dinner, we bathed in the river, but it was a bit chilly outside, so we made it snappy.
We had a gorgeous, huge can of coffee, and got into our tents, as it started to rain again. There were so many mosquitoes, and they sucked me dry, before I could zip up and retire for the evening.
There's barely enough space in my tent for myself, let alone Katryn, so our new friend had to sleep outside. There were many dry spots for him to sleep under, but he stayed close by, didn't seem to mind the rain. I was only too happy to give him some of Dante & Katryn's food (Royal Canin), because it meant a lighter pack in the morning. It was only seconds and his food was finished! Poor boy was hungry.
I tried my best to recap my day and to do some visualizations, etc, but I couldn't stay awake for more than 5 mins, so I drifted off happy to be...
I got up and found a spot where I could just sit and watch. I don't know how long I sat there, but I heard movement on the porch, and when I snapped out of it, we were back on track. Coffee, cuddle with the dogs, and packing up. This was such an energizing spot, making us stay a bit longer. We left somewhere around 9am. It was still overcast and we hiked in thick, loose sand in places, but the scenery was something else. Ahead of us, only white sandy beaches, to our right, beautiful vegetation, and to our left, the ever prescent ocean.
It started raining during our first break, and we found that we had a new friend who followed us all the way from Mnyameni. He was a black local dog, and no matter how desperately we tried to send him back, he was adamant to stay with us. Katryn didn't like it at all, and kept on growling at him. He stayed a couple of paces behind us, and every time we stopped to rest, he would sit a couple of metres away from us.
Eventually I started to feel bad, and so I invited him to walk with us, seeing as he didn't respond well to the silent treatment. He is a nice dog and I kinda liked his company. He obviously felt the urge to guide us to wherever, so I figured there was no harm in that.
When we finally reached the Sikombe river, we had to try and find a spot out of the rain, because it was becoming miserable. We found a very nice spot to set up camp, right next to the river. It has been such a good day, in terms of my state of mind, feeling complete and just being here. Our campsite was perfect, and we immediately started cooking our dinner, which consisted of spicy tomato soup and noodles. After dinner, we bathed in the river, but it was a bit chilly outside, so we made it snappy.
We had a gorgeous, huge can of coffee, and got into our tents, as it started to rain again. There were so many mosquitoes, and they sucked me dry, before I could zip up and retire for the evening.
There's barely enough space in my tent for myself, let alone Katryn, so our new friend had to sleep outside. There were many dry spots for him to sleep under, but he stayed close by, didn't seem to mind the rain. I was only too happy to give him some of Dante & Katryn's food (Royal Canin), because it meant a lighter pack in the morning. It was only seconds and his food was finished! Poor boy was hungry.
I tried my best to recap my day and to do some visualizations, etc, but I couldn't stay awake for more than 5 mins, so I drifted off happy to be...
Thursday, 03 January 2008
OVERCAST, ENERGIZING AND ADVENTUROUS
MARIA AND TWINS
THE OTHER SIDE OF MZAMBA
LONG WHITE BEACHES AS FAR AS THE EYE CAN SEE...
THE OTHER SIDE OF MZAMBA
LONG WHITE BEACHES AS FAR AS THE EYE CAN SEE...
MZAMBA TO MNYAMENI
KATRYN, MARIA AND DANTE, WAITING BY THE MZAMBA RIVER FOR LOW TIDE
We woke up, had breakfast, and packed up, thinking that it was getting very late. The tide was at it's lowest around 12pm, so we wanted to go and see if there wasn't any way we could cross it. To our dismay, we realized that it wasn't even 8am yet, so we had a long wait ahead of us. There were some people who started crossing the river, so we watched carefully, in the hopes that they knew where the shallow bits were. Still too high. We didn't wait too long, when we saw a man crossing, but higher up the river, and the water came up to his knees. Ghmff!!! We crossed immediately and were soon on our way to Mnyameni.
This stretch of coastline is simply devine. The weather is not what we had hoped for, but there's something about walking in the rain. The first part of our hike today, we had mostly soft sand, which put some strain on the calves, and especially my achillis, which is in a right state. It was fun however, and the dogs didn't seem to mind the rain too much, even though it was coming down a bit harder at times. The ocean was the most amazing shades of blue and was complemented by the grey of the clouds, which made it seem so much more intense.
We hardly saw anyone today, except for the occassional fisherman. It was quite something to have all of this to ourselves. Katryn seemed a bit melancholy, but I figured it was because she missed the clan back home, or maybe due to the sudden exersice. Difficult to say. It was still fairly early when we reached the Mnyameni River, but it was becoming challenging with the rain. The river was low enough in places to get through, and there was a ferry man in case we had troubles. On the other side of the river, on the hill, there was a handful of cottages, owned by families, who have in previous years, aquired a small peace of land from the Chief of the tribe which they have traded in return for money, or cattle, or even alcohol.
There is a lot of controversy surrounding owners of such land, and the means with which they have traded, etc. In my opinion, if you've legally retained the right to own a property, be it by trading something for it, or buying it cash, it's all good. These cottages are nothing fancy, in fact they are not allowed to build lavish beach cottages, not even allowed to build on to the existing building or even in some cases, to fix a leaking roof, thus remaining part of the rural backdrop of the Wild Coast.
We met a lovely family who was down for the holidays, John and Diane and a whole lot of lively boys, not all their own of course. We needed desperately to charge GPS and laptops, but there was only enough electricity derived from Solar panels to charge only a few items. Something is better than nothing, so thanks John, much appreciated.
We came out of the rain, and slept on the porch of one of the cottages. There were many Transkei dogs around, which means you have to be careful, or they will eat everything you have. They are usually underfed, and not well looked after. In the Xhosa tradition, dogs must fend for themselves, and find their own food and shelter. Ticks and fleas are also a problem amongst these animals. This is a very hardned breed of dog.
We met Chocolate, who is the security guard looking after this camp site at night. He is also a local Sangoma, and a very kind man. We offered him a sigarette, and we smoked one in silence mostly, because of our lack of understanding Xhosa and his broken english. It was one of those perfect moments, a moment shared in silence. Mmmm, been a long day, so with weary body, watchfull of prowling dogs, and rain falling softly on a tin roof, I fell asleep...hmmm, it's gonna be a while still before I get used to sleeping on the ground.
This stretch of coastline is simply devine. The weather is not what we had hoped for, but there's something about walking in the rain. The first part of our hike today, we had mostly soft sand, which put some strain on the calves, and especially my achillis, which is in a right state. It was fun however, and the dogs didn't seem to mind the rain too much, even though it was coming down a bit harder at times. The ocean was the most amazing shades of blue and was complemented by the grey of the clouds, which made it seem so much more intense.
We hardly saw anyone today, except for the occassional fisherman. It was quite something to have all of this to ourselves. Katryn seemed a bit melancholy, but I figured it was because she missed the clan back home, or maybe due to the sudden exersice. Difficult to say. It was still fairly early when we reached the Mnyameni River, but it was becoming challenging with the rain. The river was low enough in places to get through, and there was a ferry man in case we had troubles. On the other side of the river, on the hill, there was a handful of cottages, owned by families, who have in previous years, aquired a small peace of land from the Chief of the tribe which they have traded in return for money, or cattle, or even alcohol.
There is a lot of controversy surrounding owners of such land, and the means with which they have traded, etc. In my opinion, if you've legally retained the right to own a property, be it by trading something for it, or buying it cash, it's all good. These cottages are nothing fancy, in fact they are not allowed to build lavish beach cottages, not even allowed to build on to the existing building or even in some cases, to fix a leaking roof, thus remaining part of the rural backdrop of the Wild Coast.
We met a lovely family who was down for the holidays, John and Diane and a whole lot of lively boys, not all their own of course. We needed desperately to charge GPS and laptops, but there was only enough electricity derived from Solar panels to charge only a few items. Something is better than nothing, so thanks John, much appreciated.
We came out of the rain, and slept on the porch of one of the cottages. There were many Transkei dogs around, which means you have to be careful, or they will eat everything you have. They are usually underfed, and not well looked after. In the Xhosa tradition, dogs must fend for themselves, and find their own food and shelter. Ticks and fleas are also a problem amongst these animals. This is a very hardned breed of dog.
We met Chocolate, who is the security guard looking after this camp site at night. He is also a local Sangoma, and a very kind man. We offered him a sigarette, and we smoked one in silence mostly, because of our lack of understanding Xhosa and his broken english. It was one of those perfect moments, a moment shared in silence. Mmmm, been a long day, so with weary body, watchfull of prowling dogs, and rain falling softly on a tin roof, I fell asleep...hmmm, it's gonna be a while still before I get used to sleeping on the ground.
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