This 8000ha coastal reserve consists mostly of open grassland dissected by perenial streams and flanked by the magnificent forested ravines of the Msikaba and Mtentu rivers.
Grasslands cover a large proportion of the reserve and support a fascinating and diverse flora. Clumps of Strelitzia nicolai interupt the grassland, where they grow among rock outcrops which are protected from fire. A close look at these rock outcrops will reveal 'miniature gardens' of moss, lichens, succulents and orchids, all of which are able to survive by obtaining moisture from the regular mists and rain. Watsonias, gladiolas and ground orchids abound in the grassland which may be dominated in places by the yellow-flowered daisy Lasiosiphon anthtylloides.
Large numbers of grazing herbivores such as Eland, Red Hartebeest, Blue Wildebeest, Blesbuck, and even Gemsbok, have been introduced into the grasslands, although only the first two species are indigenous to the area. Among the birds which may be seen in this habitat are Redshouldered Widow, Longtailed Widow, Yellowthroated Longclaw, Common Waxbill and Croaking Cisticola, with Gurney's Sugarbird and Greater Double Collared Sunbird seeking nectar from the flowering strelitzias.
Patches of unique Swamp Forest, where large Umdoni and Wild Frangipani dominate, are found in low-lying areas. Of the many streams running through the reserve, the Mkambati is perhaps the most beautiful with its crystal clear pools and series of spectacular waterfalls. The Horseshoe Falls are most impressive as they drop down over a terrace in a wide arc, the stream then tumbling over another waterfall before dropping several metres into the ocean.
The coastline is very rocky, with sandy bays at river mouths. Shells may be found anywhere along the shore and fishing is outstanding. Large dunes and wide beaches occur at the mouth of the Msikaba River, where large flocks of terns congregate.
Canoes may be tken up the spectacular Msikaba River which, together with the Mtentu River, is the only place in the world where the Pondo Coconut is found. These feathery palms grow close to the water's edge on the shady south-facing banks of both rivers. The Msikaba is navigable by canoe for about two kilometres, when a series of rapids is reached. Further up the river, a colony of Cape Vultures breed on the sheer cliffs of the gorge.
Breathtaking views of the Msikaba gorge can be obtained by walking through the grassland above the river. At a bend in the gorge, a natural amphitheatre of towering evergreen forest is inhabited by a spectacular variety of birds.
Duncan Butchart
